A BMW, Cloud Forests, Waterfalls and the Spirit of Pura Vida

TL;DR

In February 2020, I explored Costa Rica on a BMW GS 1200 before continuing to Panama and the Bahamas, just weeks before COVID changed the world.

I rode through cloud forests, chased waterfalls, stayed in jungle lodges, explored Pacific beaches, spotted wildlife, and experienced the true meaning of “Pura Vida”.

Costa Rica gave me an unforgettable motorcycle adventure and an unexpected lesson when I missed my flight to Panama because of overconfidence.

The Lost Mumbaikar Says

“A motorcycle gives you freedom. Costa Rica gives that freedom somewhere extraordinary to go as if nature had designed a road trip destination.”

A Trip Taken at the Right Time

In February 2020, I found myself on a three-country adventure across Costa Rica, Panama, and the Bahamas.

At the time, Costa Rica was simply another destination on the map. None of us knew that within weeks the world would shut down. COVID-19 brought global travel to a standstill unlike anything we had seen before. Borders closed, aircraft were parked, hotels emptied, and even the most experienced travellers found themselves grounded.

For almost two years, people who lived for the road, the airport, and the thrill of discovering somewhere new had to learn patience.

Looking back, this Costa Rica-Panama-Bahamas journey feels like the end of one chapter and the beginning of another. It was one of my last adventures before the world stopped moving and travel became something we could only dream about for a while..

But before all that happened, there was Costa Rica.

A country that would eventually earn a place among my Top 25 Countries Visited.

Welcome to Pura Vida

If there is one phrase that defines Costa Rica, it is Pura Vida.

Literally meaning Pure Life, it is far more than a slogan. It is a way of living. You hear it everywhere. Locals greet each other with it. Shopkeepers use it. Taxi drivers use it.

And after spending a few days in Costa Rica, you begin to understand why.

Life feels simpler here. People appear happier. Nature dominates the landscape.

And somehow, you find yourself slowing down without even trying.

An Unexpected Friendship in San José

After collecting my BMW GS 1200 rental motorcycle and checking into my hotel in San José, I met an Indian-American traveller named Amit Kumar.

Amit had flown from San Jose, California, to attend the famous Envision Festival, one of Costa Rica’s most unique annual gatherings. The festival combines music, wellness, yoga, sustainability, art, and personal development, attracting travellers from around the world who come searching for inspiration and connection.

He invited me to join him. But we were searching for different things. Amit had travelled thousands of miles looking for peace, creativity, and a break from routine.

For me, peace was already parked outside the hotel.

A BMW GS 1200. A full tank of fuel. And an entire country waiting to be explored.

That evening, however, our adventures briefly merged.

Amit took me to a casino in San José and patiently explained a few games. Being naturally cautious, I decided my maximum loss would be USD 100. A few hours later, that USD 100 had turned into nearly USD 500.

I was delighted. Amit was considerably less lucky.

Over dinner, we explored local restaurants, sampled Costa Rican food, and laughed about the evening’s events.

Travel has a funny way of introducing strangers who become part of your story. The next morning, we went our separate ways.

Amit headed toward festivals and beaches. I headed toward mountains and cloud forests.

Chasing Clouds on a BMW GS 1200

The following morning, I left San José behind and pointed the motorcycle toward the mountains.

The roads were not perfect. In fact, compared to Europe, they were often rough, narrow, and unpredictable. But the scenery made every kilometre worthwhile.

The motorcycle became more than transportation. It became my passport into the real Costa Rica. The roads twisted endlessly through mountains covered in dense vegetation. Every few kilometres, the landscape transformed completely.

One moment I was surrounded by thick jungle. The next, I was riding through valleys covered in mist. Then suddenly, the clouds would descend and wrap themselves around the road.

The famous Monteverde Cloud Forest felt like riding through another world. Clouds drifted across the road. Visibility changed every few minutes.

The air became cooler.

The greenery became even more intense. Several times I switched off the engine simply to listen.

No traffic. No phone calls. No emails.

Just the sound of nature. For a solo traveller, those moments are priceless.

Bread, Bananas and Roadside Conversations

One of my favourite memories from Costa Rica has nothing to do with famous attractions.

It happened at a small roadside shop somewhere in the countryside.

The place reminded me of rural India.

No fancy cafés.

No tourist buses.

No souvenir shops.

Just a simple local store serving travellers and villagers.

After a long and tiring ride, I parked the BMW outside, removed my helmet with the GoPro still attached, and bought some bread and bananas.

Within minutes, a few locals gathered around the motorcycle.

They touched the bike. Asked questions. Smiled when I started the engine.

One gentleman stood listening to the deep exhaust note before giving me an enthusiastic thumbs-up.

We barely shared a common language. But motorcycles rarely need translation.

At another stop, I parked on uneven ground and underestimated the weight of the bike.

The BMW tipped over. Before I could fully react, a few locals rushed over and helped me lift it.

No hesitation. No expectation. Just kindness.

Moments like these remind you that good people exist everywhere.

Three Days Between Jungles, Waterfalls and Pacific Beaches

As the journey continued, Costa Rica kept throwing surprises at me.

One of the highlights was the beautiful La Fortuna Waterfall near the Arenal region. I parked my BMW GS 1200 and trekked nearly 20 minutes through the forest to reach it. When I arrived, there was hardly anyone around. For a few moments, it felt like I had the entire waterfall to myself.

The waterfall crashed into a deep green pool surrounded by dense jungle. The climb back, however, was much tougher. The Costa Rican heat was intense, and somewhere along the way I ended up removing my shirt and walking back with my helmet and GoPro in hand. Sweaty, tired, and surrounded by nature, it was one of those simple travel moments that I still remember years later.

And that became a recurring theme throughout Costa Rica.

The scenery often felt cinematic. One hour I was riding through dense rainforest. The next, I was crossing green valleys. Then suddenly, I would emerge beside a spectacular beach.

Places such as Manuel Antonio, Tamarindo, and Santa Teresa showed me why Costa Rica is considered one of the world’s great beach destinations.

But it wasn’t the beaches that I remember most.

It was everything around them.

For nearly three days, I stayed away from San José, sleeping in simple wooden lodges hidden between the jungle and the Pacific Ocean. Every morning began the same way. Birds became my alarm clock. No traffic. No construction noise. No phone notifications.

Just the sounds of nature waking up.

I would step outside with a cup of strong black coffee after finishing the traditional complimentary Costa Rican breakfast and simply absorb the surroundings.

Most guests staying there were travellers just like me. There was only one difference.

They had arrived in four-wheel drives. I had arrived on a dusty and muddy BMW GS 1200 whose engine was probably bigger than some of their rental cars.

Costa Rica felt different from most countries I have visited. Here, animals and humans seem to share the same space.

During my stay, I spotted monkeys swinging through trees, colourful tropical birds, giant iguanas casually sunbathing near pathways, and wildlife appearing when I least expected it. Sometimes it felt as though I was visiting their world rather than the other way around.

The colours felt exaggerated. The forests greener. The ocean bluer. The sunsets brighter.

In the evenings, I would enjoy local Costa Rican food, a cold local beer, and watch the sun slowly disappear into the Pacific. There was no rush to be anywhere. No schedule to follow. Just the simple rhythm of nature.

Few countries offer such dramatic variety within such short distances. All connected by winding roads that seemed designed specifically for adventure motorcycles.

For three unforgettable days, it was just me, a BMW GS 1200, endless roads, and a country that constantly reminded me why road trips remain my favourite way to experience the world.

The Question That Came Back to Haunt Me

Just a few weeks before this trip, I was attending a travel event in Mumbai where I was sharing stories from my journeys around the world.

During the Q&A session, someone in the audience asked me a random question.

“Shiju, you have travelled to so many countries and taken hundreds of flights. Have you ever missed a flight?”

I confidently replied, “No.”

At that point, I genuinely believed I never had.

A few weeks later, Costa Rica proved me wrong.

After finishing my motorcycle adventure, I was scheduled to fly from Juan Santamaría International Airport (SJO) in San José to Panama. My hotel in Panama was already booked, my evening plans were set, and everything seemed perfectly organised.

At least that’s what I thought.

When I reached the airport, I casually walked towards the check-in counter only to discover that my flight had already departed. The flight was scheduled for 3 PM, but somehow I had convinced myself it was departing at 5 PM.

There was no airline mistake. No traffic jam. No delayed taxi.

I had simply read the ticket incorrectly.

To make matters worse, San José is not one of those mega airports with flights leaving every hour. The next available flight to Panama was only the following morning. My hotel booking in Panama was wasted, my evening plans disappeared, and I suddenly found myself with an unexpected extra night in Costa Rica.

To save money, I spent the night at the airport and wasted a fair amount on international calls trying to rearrange my onward travel plans. By the next morning, I had learned an expensive but memorable lesson.

For a few minutes, I was annoyed with myself. Then I started laughing. The timing was simply too perfect.

Just weeks after confidently telling an audience in Mumbai that I had never missed a flight, I finally managed to miss one. That missed flight taught me a simple lesson: No matter how experienced you become, never stop checking the basics.

It applies equally to travel, business, and life. Looking back today, I barely remember the inconvenience.

What I remember is the story. And that is often how travel works. The perfect journeys fade. The unexpected moments stay with you forever.

Why Costa Rica Earned a Place in My Top 25 Countries

By the time I returned the bike and prepared to continue my journey toward Panama and later the Bahamas, I knew Costa Rica would stay with me.

Not because of a single attraction. Not because of a famous landmark.

But because few countries combine adventure, nature, wildlife, beaches, mountains, waterfalls, and road trips quite like Costa Rica. For travellers who enjoy road trips, motorcycle adventures, wildlife, and outdoor experiences, Costa Rica is one of the best destinations in the world.

It is also one of the world’s environmental success stories.

Despite occupying just 0.03% of the Earth’s surface, Costa Rica contains nearly 5% of the world’s biodiversity; Sloths. Toucans. Scarlet macaws. Monkeys. Sea turtles. Volcanoes. Rainforests.

All packed into a relatively small country. That combination is rare. But Costa Rica also taught me a lesson that had nothing to do with nature.

After confidently telling an audience in Mumbai that I had never missed a flight, I managed to miss one in San José because I read my departure time incorrectly. It reminded me that no matter how much experience we have, the basics still matter.

“Experience is valuable. But the moment experience turns into overconfidence, mistakes are waiting around the corner”.

The motorcycle adventure gave me confidence. The airport gave me humility.

And perhaps that is why Costa Rica remains so memorable.  

A country where every bend in the road revealed something new.

A country where nature always took centre stage.

A country that perfectly lives by its most famous phrase:

“Pura Vida.”

Your Turn

1. What is the most memorable road trip you have ever taken?
2. Have you ever met a stranger while travelling who unexpectedly became part of your journey?
3. Would you choose a week in Costa Rica’s cloud forests or on its Pacific beaches?